Nanjing is probably one of my favourite cities in China- surprising when it is one of the lesser visited stops on the tourist trail. I think that it is totally worthwhile to visit- it is brimming with history, has so much yummy food to try and is a much more manageable city on the spectrum of China. When exploring it, you feel like you’re in a bubble of the past, which is pretty damn sweet.
Nanjing is the capital of Jiangsu province in Eastern China, but has also been the capital for various dynasties including the Tang and Ming. It literally translates as ‘Southern Capital’. It is also sadly known for its role in conflicts, particularly the Nanjing Massacre. Not only is it known for its important heritage sites, including the Ming Tombs which are a UNESCO world heritage site, it also has some pretty famous surrounding nature. You could spend weeks exploring everything that the city has to offer.
If you’re heading in by plane, go for Lukou International Airport. By train, Nanjing or Nanjing South Station- there are very fast and regular connections from Shanghai. You can also bus it to Zhongyangmen Bus Station from Shanghai, or save some buck on a sleeper train from Beijing or Guangzhou. You can even take a boat on the Yangtze River from Shanghai. For more info, click here.
My accommodation
This was a strange one for me. Seeking the best deals for every place, I turned to Ctrip, China’s biggest site for booking transport and accommodation. So, as I usually do, I went for the cheapest but best looking/located hostel I could find, Xiaozhang Huayuan Youth Hostel. It was definitely an interesting experience- judging from the shocked reaction when I arrived, I think that I was the first and only foreigner that they had had to stay! Regardless, I had a great stay there- English speaking staff were friendly and helpful and I even made some Chinese friends thanks to Baidu translate. It’d be particularly great if you speak mandarin- they hold nightly events and meals for guests so the vibe is very sociable! It’s also a great chill space, with hidden nooks for reading, a cinema room and pretty views of the city. The location is also great- near a well-connected station and tonnes of food/bars. Although I often stay in international hostels, this made a great change and I would recommend it if anyone is up for something a little different. It was only 170 RMB for a bed in a four bed female dorm.
Day one
Okay I totally lied in this title, this is more of a two-and-a-bit day Nanjing itinerary. The majority of my first day was spent on a two hour bus from Yangshuo to a nine hour train from Guilin. Yeah you can get one that takes way less time, but I’m cheap and had some time to spare so I didn’t mind. The window views are sweet, and it reminds you of how fucking big China is.
When I did arrive by the evening, I had a chilled time warming up to the city. I negotiated some vegan ramen (which involved sending it back a few times and emphasizing that pork, is in fact, not vegetarian) and then headed to a Japanese-style bar with some people staying in my hostel. Japanese whisky is getting very popular in China and a lot of locals are hopping on the trend. One of which I got to meet in the bar, who had a serious hatred for Japan, regardless of his alcohol tastes. I guess some locals still have emotional feelings following the war.
Day two
Time to get my history oooooon! First stop, the Presidential Palace. In the Ming Dynasty, it was the residence of the royals, in the Qing it was the office of the governor of the region and from 1911 it was the base for Sun-Yat Sen. Today, it is a museum of China’s history, and allows visitors to see where China was ruled from for many years. Because of this history, its a popular spot for locals, but I honestly found it a little underwhelming. There was a small amount of English information and the offices were pretty boring to look at! Regardless, the garden was pretty and I still felt an appreciation for its deep rooted role as a historical site.
In the afternoon I headed to the Confucius Temple, a place of worship of the big man Confucius, as well as a museum of the history of Confucius study at the temple. The place dates back to the eleventh century, but was sadly destroyed by the Japanese during the war, and rebuilt afterwards. After experiencing a lot of Buddhist temples in China, this was a welcome change. It was a very relaxing place and it was interesting to learn about Confucius scholarship in the past and present.
Don’t worry, the fun doesn’t stop at the temple. It actually resides in the Nanjing Fuziamo area, which is a hub of shops and food alongside the pretty Qin Huai River. My afternoon was spent getting lost in the streets whilst stuffing my face with fried potatoes. It is the perfect place to take a stroll.
Day three
It was time to prepare myself for an emotional few hours at the Memorial Hall to the Victims of the Nanjing Massacre. It is located in Jiangdongmen, one of the sites of mass execution and burial. It was heavy, and tough to be in a lot of times, but it is definitely an essential stop on any visit to Nanjing. As a survivor is quoted in the museum, ‘remember history, but not with hatred’.
In July 1937 the Japanese army invaded Nanjing, and the following six weeks included the horrific massacre and torture of locals. 30,000 died and 20,000 women were raped. A tonne of local buildings were also destroyed.
The museum begins with some imposing sculptures that remind us of the suffering that went on. Then comes a hefty museum that details all of the events of the tragedy- the bombings alongside the mass rapes and murders among local adults and children. You will cry, its guaranteed. A lot of the images are quite graphic, so prepare yourself for that. Its tough, but worth it.
Alongside the museum is a tonne of memorials, including a room of photographs, dirt from battle sites and, my personal favourite, a mirror room of electric candles. There is a lot of emphasis on reflection and prayer. The experience closes with survivor’s stories, giving us some hope for the future.
After a heavy morning, I headed to some peace at the Zhongshan Scenic Area. It was beautiful and so peaceful, providing the perfect opportunity to reflect on the events of the morning. Strolling through the park, I headed to the Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum, the tomb of Emperor Hongwu and Empress Ma, who founded the Ming dynasty in 1368.
The UNESCO world heritage site starts with a long ass walk through elephant sculptures alongside imposing woodland. Then comes two stunning, traditional Ming style gates, which you can climb up and take in the view of the ‘Sacred Way’ that you just strolled down. Finally, at the back, there’s a burial mound for the bodies of the Emperor and Empress. It was a very relaxing and peaceful place, I’d recommend!
Finally, I headed to the Sun Yat-Sen’s Mausoleum, with the clock ticking until it closed. You can tell the majority of Chinese people have a greater appreciation for their recent history- it was way busier than the Ming Tomb! Interesting too, Sun Yat-Sen’s final resting place is surrounded by shops, and restaurants including a KFC. Why not monopolize on a respected leaders death?
Sun Yat-Sen is considered the father of modern China, leading a democratic revolution against the Qing dynasty, ending 2000 years of a feudal monarchical system. And man, is China proud. His mausoleum is huge, and imposes the entire landscape. I headed up the marble steps to realize that it closed ten minutes ago. Sad times. Regardless, it was worth the treck to see the structure itself, and the great respect that he has in Chinese society.
Nanjing was great, and it really let me embrace my inner history nerd. I learnt a lot about China’s past and was grateful that I took the time to stop and check it out. Next stop, Shanghai!
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