All that I can say to begin is, holy fuck, this place is one of the most beautiful in the world. Well, of what I’ve got to see so far. The miles upon miles of karst mountains overshadowing some of China’s most famous rivers is simply too much. You could spend a lifetime here, hiking and boating away your days. It’s like being in a magical dream land- the scenery is simply too beautifully unique to be real.
Yangshuo is a county under the jurisdiction of Guilin city, in the northeast of Guanxi, in the South of China. Full of mountains, caves and rivers (including the famed Li River and Yulong River), the area is highly popular with tourists from all over the world. You can experience its popularity in West Street, a crazy tourist hub at the centre of town full of restaurants, bars and clubs that cater to a foreign crowd and totally contrasts with the peaceful scenery. Despite the craziness of West Street, the surrounding area is a perfect respite from the craziness of Chinese cities. The air of Yangshuo is clean and there’s like, no traffic- is it even really China??!?!
If you choose to go, you have a shit-tonne of options, for arriving- although by plane is not one of them. If you insist on flying, you can head to Guilin and get the bus, train or boat from there. This depends on your preference and where you’re staying. The boat takes a long ass time, but is a good option for a scenic route. The cheapest way is by bus, which takes around an hour and a half from Guilin. It totally depends what you’re doing. But, FYI, if you end up getting dropped off far from your hostel, taxis will be in your face and ready to take you to where you want to be. WikiTravel‘s page is super helpful in weighing up transport options.
My accommodation
Terrace view
I stayed at Travelling With Hostel, and had a nice and comfortable stay. It’s cheap, but has everything that you need to relax and enjoy the place. My favourite part was the outside deck which overlooks the surrounding mountains. Its in a great location on West Street, so food and drink are easy to come by, but also near other places to explore, as well as buses that’ll take you further afield if you so desire. The staff were also great. I had an awesome time there! To round it off, I only paid 61 CNY for two nights in a six bed mixed dorm, and it was such value for money.
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Day One
I only had two days in this magical place, so was tight for time. I got my ass over from Guilin ASAP via bus and was sure to sit by the window to take in the beautiful views. After checking in, the staff in my hostel recommended a cycling route for me for the afternoon, that looped around some caves, Moon Hill and the Yulong river. Now, I have some regrets with this. It was June, hot as fuck, I was wearing a short dress and had little water and snacks. So many errors. The crotch chafing was oh-so-real. I got hella lost without food and water in the blistering sun and genuinely believed my death was eminent until I encountered a friendly old man selling watermelon at the side of the road. Man, watermelon has never tasted so good.
But for reals, I’d recommend showing up either prepared for hours of cycling in the sun, or just rent an electric bike, which I was too frugal and scared to do. In hindsight I’d have definitely taken the lazier bike option. Regardless, the pain that I endured was worth it. Cycling through the mountains, past river and cute little hamlets was an afternoon well-spent.
That evening I headed to Pure Lotus Vegetarian for some life-saving vegetarian food, followed by Mojo Bar with some new friends that I made. The bar is so cool- it sits on the top of a hotel, and you’re literally drinking among the mountains. It also has a beer pong table, if that’s your jam.
Day Two
For my second and final day in Yangshuo, I thought fuck it, and followed the tourist trail to the Li River and the famous 20 yuan note viewpoint.
You already hit a mega cultural experience as soon as you get off the bus. The walk to the viewpoint is via Xingping Ancient Town, which is a sight in itself. Walking through the streets makes you feel like you’re roaming old school China, its living history! Well, until you hit the touristy bit full of souvenir shops and western-style cafes. We tried, at least. Be sure to stop off for a beer or tea, and fill up on street food on the way to the river.
Before I hit the big-shot view, I headed to the boat dock to take in the views of the river and karst mountains. Honestly, it was kind of like the Yulong River 2.0. The mountains are bigger, the river is wider, the boats on it are double the size of the little hand-rowed rafts on the Yulong. But hey, does size really matter? Regardless, the views are stunning and I was very tempted into a boat tour, if only I wasn’t on a backpackers budget!
After soaking up the views I headed across the river and up the mountain to the famed money spot. Let’s just say, you’ll know when you reach the main viewpoint because there’s hoards of tourists. It was pretty, but honestly too much for me, so I got my snap with the note and headed off, seeking a quieter spot, somewhat regretting my decision. Don’t worry friends, it came a little lower down the mountain, on a quiet water’s edge walkway off the main road. There I sat and got all pensive whilst soaking up the movie-like scenery that I was sitting in.
I spent my final evening in this scenic wonderland at Mood Food Energy Cafe, and then roamed West Street. It’s sooooo full on, with bar promoters and shops everywhere. But its for sure an experience, and a great spot for shopping if that’s what you’re into. I actually found myself wandering off the beaten track into a riverside temple, where I sat, read, and enjoyed how beautifully lit the mountains were. It was a peaceful respite from the craziness of West Street for sure.
Then, to bed, as I was getting up disgustingly early to head to Nanjing. Yaaaaaay!
Have you been to Yangshuo or planning a trip there? Let me know in the comments!
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